Aggressive Dogs

The Warning Signs

Some common myths about dog attacks:

Recognising the early signs of Aggression

Does your dog ever tense up, stare, raise its hackles, growl, lift its lips or snap when:

• Eating or when food is around?
• Its ears, paws, tail or belly is touched?
• Someone goes near its bed or toys?
• Some tries to move the dog from a comfortable spot?
• It is told off?
• Someone pulls on its collar?
• Someone grabs the dog, or tries to pick it up?
• It is approached by people, children or other dogs?

Does your dog lunge out at people or dogs when out walking?
Does your dog rush out barking and growling at passers-by?

If you answer "YES" to any of the above situations, then your dog may be aggressive. These are the early warning signs.

You need to seek professional advice, as your dog's behaviour is likely to get worse, not better with time. Don’t wait until someone has been seriously bitten.

The sooner you seek help, the more easily the problem can be solved.

Does your dog get very nervous, cower away or try to run away from children, or adults or other dogs?

If "YES" your dog could be dangerous if it ever feels threatened or cornered, and may attack out of fear. You need to seek professional advice to help your dog overcome its fear.

If you are concerned about your dog's behaviour, please consult your veterinarian, who may be able to help you, or refer you to an animal behaviourist. You dog may also require further socialisation and obedience training.

A community project developed by AMREX in conjunction with your local council and the Australian Veterinary Association © Copyright AMREX 1996

Barking Dogs

The Warning Signs

Some common myths about barking dogs:

Simple Tips for Barking Dogs

• Make sure you do not reward your dog for barking too much. Don't let the dog inside or give it attention when it barks. Instead, give the dog attention when it is quite.
• If the dog is barking at people or noises on the other side of a fence, move the dog to another part of the yard, or put up a barrier to keep the dog away from that area.
• A radio playing softly may help to block any noises which the dog is barking at. Place the radio between the dog and the noise.
• If the dog races along a path or fence barking at passing distractions, put barriers or obstacles in the dog's way to slow it down.
• Ensure that the dog has adequate exercise and obedience training.
• Make sure that the dog has food, water and shelter from the weather.
• If the dog is barking at gaps and cracks in the fence, fill in the gaps.
• If the dog is barking at people it can see passing by, try flocking the dog's view.
• An anti-barking collar may be useful for some, but not all, barking dogs. Ask your veterinarian for details.
• Teach the dog to stop barking on command. When the dog is barking give a firm command such as "Cease" and call the dog to you. Praise the dog when it stops barking. If you have trouble getting the dog’s attention try making a loud noise. If the dog will not listen to you, then your dog will need more obedience training.

Dogs bark for many reasons and if these simple tips don't help you, seek further advice.

Your veterinarian may be able to help you, or refer you to an animal behaviourist. Your Council may also be able to assist, or provide details of the "Barkline" information service.

A community project developed by AMREX in conjunction with your local council and the Australian Veterinary Association © Copyright AMREX 1996.

What to do when you Lose your dog

• Don't just wait for it to come back. It may be in the pound, it may be injured or it may be in someone's backyard.
• Check around your neighbourhood. Go to places that the dog regularly visits, such as the park. Check local shopping centres and schools.
• Contact the local Council, and neighbouring Councils, as soon as possible to see if the dog has been impounded.
• Check animal shelters and local veterinarians.
• Advertise in the paper or on the radio. Put up notices on shopping centre notice boards or put slips of paper in letterboxes. Give a description of the dog, and your name, address and telephone number. Offer a reward.
• Sunrise is a good time to look for your dog, as this is when it is more likely to be on the move.
• Dogs may wander a long way. Notify neighbouring councils and veterinarians. If you have moved recently, your dog might try to return to your old house.
• Keep looking for several weeks. Sometimes people find a dog and don't report it to the Council straight away, as they are worried that the dog might be destroyed.

If your dog is impounded:

Councils are required to keep a dog for at least 72 hours before disposing of it.

If your dog is in the pound, you must collect it and pay a fee, plus any fines for offences the dog may have committed while wandering.

What to do if you find a stray dog

• Notify the nearest Council. If the owner of the dog is looking for it, they will call the pound. If you keep the dog and don't report it to the Council the dog's owner may not be able to find it.
• Neighbouring Councils should also be contacted, as the dog may have wandered a long way.
• Some Councils may allow you to keep the dog if it is unclaimed after a certain period of time. Some Councils may require the dog to be sterilised before it goes to a new owner.
• Check with people in your neighbourhood, to see if they have lost a dog.
• The dog's owner may have contacted local veterinarians and animal shelters. These places often keep lists of lost pets, and may be able to help find the owners.
• Advertise in the newspaper, or put up notices at the local shops, post office etc.
• If the dog is a pedigree, contact the breed club. A list of breed clubs is available through the Canine Association of WA.

Identification

Many lost dogs never find their homes simply because they have no identification tags.

Your dog must have a current registration tag and must also have identification giving your name and address.

If your dog is injured and taken to a veterinarian, the vet can contact you immediately if your dog carries your telephone number.

Microchips

Microchips can be implanted under the dog's skin. This is a permanent way of identifying your dog. Microchipping is currently being introduced in WA and you should contact your vet for details.

A community project developed by AMREX in conjunction with your local council and the Australian Veterinary Association © Copyright AMREX 1996

Preventing Dog Attacks

Recognising danger zones

There are certain times and placed where a dog is more likely to be aggressive. By being aware of these danger zones, you may avoid being bitten, or if you're a dog owner, you may be able to prevent your dog from biting someone else. If you have a dog which is aggressive, you should seek professional advice before someone is injured.

Danger zones include:

• On the dog owner's property. The dog may react aggressively to people it considers as intruders.
• Close by its owner's property. The dog may not recognise the boundary fence or the footpath as being the limit of its territory.
• In the car or on the back of a utility or truck. The dog may consider the vehicle to be part of its territory and bite anyone who goes near the vehicle. If the dog is sitting in the car, don't leave the window down far enough for the dog to lunge out and bite someone.
• At a local park or street where the dog regularly walks and urinates to mark this area as its territory.
• When being walked on a leash, some dogs may be protective of their owners and become aggressive towards people or dogs walking by.
• When the dog is near its owner or the owner's children. If someone touches the owner the dog may think that the person is threatening the owner and bite.
• When the dog is grabbed or pulled by the collar.
• When the dog is nervous, or feels cornered and can’t run away.
• When the dog has a bone or toy, or is near its food or bed.

If the dog barks or tries to get out, give a firm command such as "NO". Praise the dog if it is quite. Only let the dog out again when it is not barking. If your dog does not respond to your commands, it may require further obedience training.

Supervising dogs with children

Dogs and small children should never be left together unsupervised. No matter how good natured the dog is, a dangerous situation could develop if the dog is hurt, frightened, cornered or feels threatened.

Children must not hug and kiss dogs. Many bites on children's faces result from the child trying to hug a dog.

Children must be taught to handle animals gently and carefully.

Adults supervising dogs with children should be aware of potentially dangerous situations:

• When there is food around.
• When the dog is unwell or in pain.
• When the dog is nervous or excited.
• When the dog has a litter of pups.
• When two dogs are playing or fighting together.
• When visiting children are with the dog.
• When children play in or near the dog’s bed.

Your dog may need to be trained to wear a muzzle for safety if you are at all uncertain about how the dog will react to children.

Remember to praise and reward the dog for good behaviour. Obedience training will help you to control your dog's behaviour.

A community project developed by AMREX in conjunction with your local council and the Australian Veterinary Association © Copyright AMREX 1996

How to stop your dog wandering

As a dog owner, you MUST make sure that your dog is not able to wander off your property. This means that you must use one of the methods described below to keep your dog at home.

If you allow your dog to wander, it might be impounded, and you will have to pay a fee to collect your dog. It also runs the risk of being poisoned, injured or killed on the road.

If your dog causes damage, or injures a person or another animal while it is wandering, you can be made liable for this damage.

Ways to confine your dog

Fences

The type of fence that you need will depend on the size and activity level of your dog. The dog must not be able to jump or climb over, dig under or push through the fence.

If your dog is climbing or jumping over the fence, you can add an inward sloping extension to the top of the fence. This works better than just trying to make the fence higher.

Alternatively, you can put up a low internal fence, about a metre in from your boundary fence. This stops the dog getting a "run up" at the fence, or getting into position to jump up at the fence.

If the dog is digging out, you may need to dig a trench around the bottom of the fence and fill it with concrete, or attach a strip of chicken wire to the bottom of the fence and bury it.

Self-latching gates

Self-latching gates should be installed to prevent the gates being left open accidentally.

Pen or compound

When fencing the whole yard is difficult, dogs may be kept in a pen or compound. These need to be big enough for the size of your dog, and should be built in a quite, sheltered area. Do not build the pen or compound near your neighbour's fence or a busy footpath.

A concrete base is better than dirt as it is easier to keep clean and prevents digging out.

Dogs kept in a pen our compound MUST be exercised regularly.

Running Wire

This is a wire run between two supports. The dog is attached to the wire by a chain lead, which slides along the wire, allowing the dog to walk up and down. DO NOT attached the wire to the fence, or close to the fence as the dog may jump over the fence and strangle itself.

If the dog gets tangled around the supports, place a block near each end of the wire to prevent the dog getting too close to the supports.

If you use a running wire, you must still have proper fences to keep your dog in. You are not allowed to use a running wire as your only way of restraining your dog.

Tethering

Tethering your dog on a rope or chain is not recommended, as the dog can easily get tangled. You must still have a proper fence even if your dog is tethered on a rope or chain.

Problems with confinement

Dogs which are not used to being confined, or which are confined for too long, may cause problems. They may begin to bark too much, or may damage property or injure themselves trying to escape.

To avoid these problems:

• Gradually get the dog used to confinement by keeping it in for short periods of time to begin with, first with the owner still at home and later when the owner goes out. Slowly increase the length of time in which the dog is confined.
• Play with the dog and feed it in its enclosure, so that it doesn't think the enclosure is a punishment.
• Make sure the enclosure is safe and secure.
• Place the enclosure in a quiet area of the property.
• Ensure that the dog has shelter, water, toys, and is comfortable.

If the dog barks or tries to get out, give a firm command such as "NO". Praise the dog if it is quiet. Only let the dog out again when it is not barking. If your dog does not respond to your commands, it may require further obedience training.

A community project developed by AMREX in conjunction with your local council and the Australian Veterinary Association © Copyright AMREX 1996